John Milius’ 1978 masterpiece Big Wednesday has an abundance of poignant monologues. Many of them involve the movie’s more senior figure, the famous surfboard shaper Bear. In the early stages The Bear appears to be the epitome of surfing longevity. Who can forget: “That’s the lemon next to the pie. It’s going to get bigger.” Despite Bear not riding a wave on screen and clearly suffering from the pitfalls of life, he was a guiding light to the three friends, … Continue reading You Can Surf Forever: How to Ensure Surfing Longevity