A long time ago, a wise man told me that life is all about moments of heightened emotion, regardless of whether they are good or bad. During these peak experiences, we discover our true selves: who we are when the veil of thoughts is lifted. For brief and often transformative moments we experience life without filters.
Surfing is a peak experience. As surfers, we are fortunate to have discovered a way to achieve unity with nature, which, on a planetary level, is but a microcosm of the universe. We get to experience touching infinity through a pastime that provides so much enjoyment.
Perhaps play is the point. Surfing is a dance – there is no endpoint or destination. No-one is trying to race to get to the end of a wave. The journey is the reason why.
Sure, surfing is pointless and benefits few others but the person taking part. But hopefully we, as the ones who love to surf, we can share the wisdom and joy that comes with the experience.
Surfing demands commitment, perseverance and deliberate practice, over many years. It is not for the faint-hearted or easily scared.
There is much to be learned from following the path of a 🏄 . We’re here to enjoy this journey, together.