The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
What I love the most about surfing is that it’s my first love. It’s the first thing I can remember being consumed by.
I feel really at home in the ocean; surfing is a huge part of who I am.
There’s an independence to surfing, it’s just you and the ocean. There aren’t a bunch of rules.
I’ve always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.
There’s no secret to balance, you just have to feel the waves.
Surfing leads you through life, especially when you’re young and with hope in your heart.
Surfing is simply the most fun I know how to have in this planet.
I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.
Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Surfing makes me happy so that’s just what I plan on doing.
Sliding a wave removes our brains out of the ordinary and slips us into the extraordinary of being there now. No more worries about mortgages or strife of being poor or rich. When you enter the domain of an ocean cylinder, that moment, those split seconds belong to the Zen part of just being. Period.
Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it’s my passion, my love, and it’s a part of me.