Book Review: Bonus Time — Extreme Lives and Second Chances

There’s something about surfing that rewires the brain. The push and pull of the tides, the thrill of the drop, and the split-second decisions that can mean the difference between full-blown stoke and a full-body spin-cycle thrashing. It’s no wonder that surfers develop a unique relationship with fear, risk, and resilience. A book by Jim Howe and Mike Markrich captures this beautifully, offering a deeply personal and profound look at six surfers who have faced their own mortality and come out the other side with stories worth telling. The book is called Bonus Time: Extreme Lives and Second Chances.

Each chapter unfolds like a mini-biography, tracing the paths of these individuals from the moment they fell in love with the ocean to the life-altering challenges they encountered. For some, the waves gave them purpose; for others, they became a proving ground for resilience. But in every case, the ocean was a constant—both an escape and a teacher.

This book doesn’t just celebrate the highs of surfing; it delves into the raw, unfiltered truths of what it means to live on the edge. From near-fatal wipeouts to moments of pure transcendence, these stories remind us why surfing isn’t just a sport—it’s an art, science, and way of life.

If you’ve ever paddled into a wave bigger than you thought you could handle, or if you’ve ever found solace in the sea after life knocked you down, Bonus Time will resonate deeply. More than just a book about surfing, it’s a tribute to the human spirit, the power of community, and the relentless pursuit of something greater than oneself.

Highly recommended for those who crave adventure, appreciate the art of storytelling, and understand that sometimes, the greatest lessons come from the heaviest wipeouts.

To dive deeper into the making of Bonus Time, we spoke with authors Jim Howe, Mike Markrich, and Andrea Dunn about their inspirations, challenges, and key insights from the book.

What inspired you to write Bonus Time? Was there a particular moment or story that sparked the idea?

As the Chief of Ocean Safety for the Island of Oahu, I was responsible for investigating all major injuries and deaths that happened in the near-shore ocean waters and on the beaches. Unfortunately, there were many hundreds during my 26 years in this role. I wondered what I could share about the people who survived and how it changed their lives. I had known Mike a long time and, after his serious heart attack, we decided to collaborate on this book. Together with Andrea, our hope was to turn loss into inspiration and honor those people who had come through this horrendous experience of almost dying in the ocean and surviving. We started with the title of people having an “expiration date” but the surfers didn’t like that; they said everyone who almost dies lives on “Bonus Time”, an expression offered up by survivor Ray Howell, who is featured in one of our stories. That name stuck. We started talking about what you can learn from these kinds of experiences; that is how the book started.

How did you choose the surfers featured in the book? Were there any stories that didn’t make the final cut?

In Hawaii, we have what’s known as the ‘coconut wireless.’ It’s how we share the stories that never make it into print. We do this to create awareness of dangerous situations so others can learn from these experiences. Most of this is now found on social media and the reach goes way beyond our shores. Some of these stories are so unbelievable you can’t make them up. We started out with stories from my lifeguarding career, then expanded our scope to include people I had met during my 50-year surfing journey. There were stories that didn’t make the cut. Some Mike and I disagreed on. Some we didn’t have room for. Some people, after their stories were written, changed their minds because they didn’t think their stories were “Bonus Time” enough.

What do you think surfing teaches people about facing adversity?

Surfing, from beginner to expert, has many stages of progression. The limits to this progression are self-imposed. Anyone choosing to progress from one stage to the next is going to face adversity. It takes courage and commitment to achieve the skills and confidence to move to the next level. One doesn’t have to achieve excellence in surfing, but you do have to learn to overcome adversity. This is true in almost all aspects of life.

Many surfers talk about entering a flow state when riding waves. Do you think this mindset helps them navigate life beyond the ocean?

Surfing is all about finding the flow: the time when all the extraneous “noise” of our conscious world is put to bed. It is the place in our heads where harmony with the ocean and our bodies merge. Navigating this state of being leads people down many different paths. Some are beneficial and lead to personal growth and happiness. But others can dead-end in frustration, despair or addictions. It’s important to stay on track by living a life focused on health and happiness. Staying in flow brings rewards to all aspects of our lives.

What was the most surprising or unexpected insight you gained while writing this book?

I think it was observing that surfers, men and women, are a special breed. It doesn’t matter if they are rich or poor or overweight or thin, educated or not. People who surf do so because they must. The freedom of the ocean and waves call to them. It’s not just the thrill. Riding waves takes them to a higher consciousness level. There are people who surf and there are surfers. If you stop serious surfers from surfing, it’s like taking a fish out of water. Life for them loses its meaning.
A lot of people can’t understand that.

If there’s one takeaway you hope readers get from Bonus Time what would it be?

Surfing is not really about competition or impressing people. It’s about making the most of your life. There’s a Hawaiian saying: “Don’t worry about what you can’t do. Concentrate on what you can do.” In other words, your life is your wave. Ride it as far as you can.